The Road To Lasha
As usual, China rolled out the red unwelcome rug when we crossed over the Nepal border into Tibet. The we is the group that I was attached to since individual travel is suspect and therefore forbidden. After holding us up for two days because .... just because (our Tibetan guide informed us that one doesn't ask why to the powers that be). Our vintage bus crawled up and into the plateau that is referred to as the roof of the world. This one had a few leaks in it, August being the month when the rain comes down hard in big fat drops and the clouds hang heavy over the vastness that is usually pictured as desert. It was slow going , the driver and guide having to stop and pitch rocks into the mud to get traction, while we shivered, huddled in the dampness and darkness, the world was what the headlights illuminated. We rested and fed (the menu consisting of one item and loads of weak tea or the local favorite of rancid butter tea) along the way in places that had that still retained that frontier aura and comfort level, the community toilets came to be called The Horror Pits. After a few days of this members of the expedition started to succumb to the altitude (14-15000 ft) food and general conditions that one encounters on the road less traveled. Dark circles under the eyes, wheezing, nausea and or the runs, contributed to a certain lack of enthusiasm for the miles and days ahead. On the 3rd evening , the Swiss girl (no stranger to mountains) laid low and weak came to the guides room and whimpered between gasps for precious molecules of oxygen "we are to high - we are too high" He could only comfort her with ".... tea is good for you".

Even through the limited vistas afforded us by leaden skies one could get a feel for the outwardly beauty of the stark landscape beyond the dirty windows. Gradually most in the party grew to appreciate the journey, the culture and those beautifull smiling faces of the Tibetans who have discoverd how to live in equilibrium with a hostile world. All roads led to Lasha that mythical abode of the Dali Lama, and it was a bit deflating when upon reaching its outskirts. The first thing to meet the eye was all along the horizon: sky cranes putting up concrete buildings to house the endless same same rows of Chinese shops and apartments The powers in Beijing relentless in enlarging their footprint over, well basically, everything in its shadow. But still the spirit of the Tibetan soul continues to be evident and in its quiet way still thrives against great odds. I enjoyed traveling with the group, the comradery of shared misery. But I had the urge discover that something that comes only when your out there alone. So I go off to the long distance bus station to see if I can smuggle myself onto one. Upon inquiring about getting information, I was pointed to go to a rather large out-building, pushed open the doors and entered an empty hall, hanging from the ceiling was a large question mark, hanging in space. I ran my hand along the counter; just dust and only an echo to answer. All very Kafkaesque but that is the face that China hides from the world. I came to call it the land of NO; ask no question and you will need no answer... end ....part 1 soon to be continued... have a truly Merry Christmas and a fab New Year, peace on earth and HO HO HO, HE HE, HA HA
- M Paulaitis